build 5-corner garden shed
build 5-corner garden shed
A 5-corner garden house is the right choice for most gardens, because it exploits optimally the space by placing in a corner of the garden. Is the back corner turned to the north, the summer house is optimally aligned and does not create unnecessary shadow areas in the garden that are rarely used and in which unsightly moss spreads.
This step-by-step guide refers to the five-corner garden shed "Monica-28" The Garden House GmbH, but can also be used in similar 5-corner garden homes because the building itself is very similar in general.
We also provide additional care Tips and Food for thought for the design.
Of the underground must at the site of the future garden house frost-proof and sound be. Proven best has a continuous concrete slab In plan size of the house. are less costly footings with walkway or concrete slabs as additional support for the floor joists.
Before starting construction, should first be aware of the legal requirements for the construction of a garden house. when a building permit required and how to get them, we learn to our summer house-building permit.
Garden house build with kit
- Lay support beam
- wall construction
- Assembling the door frame
- Upper wall frame
- roof construction
- Attach roof sheathing
- roof shingles
Lay support beam
First, the support beam designed for the finished foundation and with the ring beam screwed. The bottom row of planks walls is already laid and screwed at various points diagonally to the ring beam. This makes the installation of the walls later easier.
Each two opposite walls begin with a narrow board, the other with a normal wall beam. The boards fit together exactly by notches at the ends.
At the doorway, the piles are connected with inclined screw through the top ends of the wall boards to the joists. The screws must be completely submerged so that the screw heads are not in the further assembly in the way. In order to prevent the boards split, the holes can be previously pre-drilled with a smaller drill bit. Who wants to create space for the screw head can extend the top piece of the borehole with a drill in the appropriate size. by pocket bore fits the screw head perfectly into the wood and is then practically invisible.
the other rows are now plugged and carefully nailed down on the already mounted lower planks row. While never hit with a hammer on the boards, but always use a block of wood or rubber mallet. Only when the bottom 4-6 rows were hoisted, it is advisable to align the kit with a spirit level. the house will be put into balance by sub-padding. The extra weight of the wall boards ensures that the house is stable on the blocks and do not accidentally move in the further assembly. As base plastic blocks or weather-resistant wood residues are used, e.g. from Bankirai.
Is about half the wall height reached, the window elements and the door frames inserted and already partially screwed. In the perimeter frames are still following short wall sections For better grip, which facilitates further assembly.
Assembling the door frame
For mounting the door initially supplied frame elements are plugged together and screwed. In this case, first, one end of screw to take the width dimension and match when screwing of the other end, so that both sides have exactly the same width. As is necessary for the door leaves at the end that they match. The finished composite doorframe is then pushed from above onto the previously placed door frames.
Through the door frame, the walls have more stability and the last wall elements can be easily geschuben into the grooves and festgeklopft. The top elements of the window sides are cut on the windows and fit exactly into the perimeter frames.
Upper wall frame
Now the last plank row is mounted. The top two wall members are continuous boards that form the projection on the front side. As storm brake long threaded rods are pushed through holes in the ends of the wall boards and secured with nuts and washers. The same is true (with correspondingly shorter threaded rods) for the two planks that form the apex at the front side. The latter may alternatively be secured with long screws. It should always be pre-drilled so that the elements do not break down in the direction of the fiber flow.
Now the roof beam assembled. For this purpose, two opposite beams are connected by means of the small pad at the top of each other and diagonally set on 2 house corners. The other two beams can now be easily created and bolted.
Starting from the corners are then eaves beams placed with the notch on the edge wall and screwed to the roof edge and the respective diagonal bars. The length and skew of each eaves beam defines its position in the roof construction. Are all bar bolted to the roof is ready for installation of the formwork.
Attach roof sheathing
Before the roof boarding is screwed on, first, the rotating panels are flush screwed onto the ends of the roof beams. previously cut boards of the roof boarding are then screwed or -genagelt starting from the bottom.
Those who wish can apply a protective coating prior to application of roofing felt. These stains, hard oil or varnish is applied liberally and should have sufficient time to dry before the next step.
The first row of roofing shingles is nailed with the beaver tails upward at the lower edge of the roof surface. Be here on an overhang on the roof edge of about 3-4 cm, so that rainwater runoff from coming into contact with the wood. The next row is laterally offset by half a clapboard and overlapping applied, so that the nail points of the previous row are covered not by this shingles. Thereafter, scale-like up to the top work up. the shingles are cut with a carpet knife to the slopes. The open transitions between the roof surfaces are covered at the end with individually cut scales that are placed centrally over the joint and then nailed.
In garden shed kits, the floor boards are cut to size. Only at the door slope have the boards that run against the threshold, to be adapted. work thoroughly when sawing, the sawed-off ends are still needed for the ceiling of the roof supernatant!
The floorboards then zusammengsteckt and laid floating, ie not screwed to the substructure. The floor must at all sides have a uniform distance from the walls, so that the wood can work. One may use about one centimeter thick wooden blocks as spacers so that the boards do not shift during work.
Finally, the appropriately delivered sawed edgings screwed with short screws obliquely to the wall. Again, the bars should first be pre-drilled.
the open Triangle over the door is closed with the inclined residues from the floor. Subsequently, inner and outer sealing angle bar are screwed to the door. These bars are not attached to the door frame, but at an angle at the ends up in the overhanging roof beams. As always, must be pre-drilled here.
Thereafter, the door hinges are screwed into the holes and the door hooked. Readjust the door If necessary, by turning the tapes.
Finally, a protective painting applied, or stained or painted in the desired color.
Supported by the
Garden House GmbH