build dressing furniture
build dressing furniture
build different pieces of furniture for the entrance area itself
The corridor or hallway is the connecting room in an apartment. It is often the living area, which is most difficult to decorate. But are jackets, shoes, hats and many other things Used daily often carelessly thrown into the corner because the necessary furniture missing for storage.
The result is a cluttered, uncomfortable and confused-looking entrance of an apartment, which does not pursue a harmonious overall concept.
With the right furniture, you can eliminate this problem. Be inspired by our blueprints for key boxes, wall shelves and Dumb Waiter and create individual dressing furniture for optimum use of space and interior design.
Contents: dressing furniture - build wall shelf
- build customized wall shelf
- build key box itself
- build valet stand made of wood
build customized wall shelf
Materials and tools list
- 1 MDF board, 19 mm, 1,850 x 800 mm (1)
- 3 shelves: glued laminated beech, 18 mm, 400 x 100 mm (2)
- 8 Allzweckkiste Kiefer, 300 x 200 x 140 mm (3)
- 1 support leg: glued laminated beech, 18 mm, 500 x 160 mm (4)
- 1 Series mirror, 400 x 500 mm
- Genius PRO Schultafellack, black, 375 ml
- Genius PRO 2in1 clearcoat, 375 ml
- Phillips screws 16, 3.5 x 25 mm
- 4 Phillips screws, 3.5 x 35 mm
- 9 Phillips screws, 4.0 x 50 mm
- 1 Mirror Tape
- 4 dowels and screws for wall mounting, S6
Folding rule, pencil, angle, protractor or set square, screwdriver,
short Phillips screwdriver, jigsaw, 4- and 5-mm wood drill bit,
180er- and the 220-grit sandpaper, paint rollers, brushes, water level
Building instructions dressing furniture
1. Show the wood parts (1), (2) and (4) cut in toom BauMarkt. The exact dimensions are shown in the timber list.
Second Draw at the 4 corners of the MDF-board (1) to a radius of about 50 mm. If you do not have a compass on hand, simply use a saucer, tin, or the like as a template. Now you can easily saw off with a jigsaw the corners. Round then all corners with 180 sandpaper and sand the edges smooth.
Third Now draw the positions of the shelves (2) - as indicated on the drawing. Drill three 5 mm holes for later attachment.
4th Dust off the plate (1) and prime them with Genius PRO Schultafellack. When the paint has dried, sand it with 220-grit sandpaper uniformly smooth and paint the plate a second time.
5th While the paint dries, you can use the supporting foot (4) - as shown - saw off at an angle at the sides. Finish off all the edges of the support leg and the shelves (2) with 180-grit sandpaper and sand smooth. Now you can prime these parts with Genius PRO clearcoat. After drying, you can grind these parts with 220-grit sandpaper, then you should apply the paint twice. If you want to paint the all-purpose boxes just exactly!
6th If all parts are dried thoroughly, unscrew first the shelves (2) - this works best if you put the plate on a pair of goats. Ideally, you have a helper who holds the floors from the top to the right place so that you can fix it with 4 x 50 screws them from below. The support leg (4) will be aligned in the center, and so screwed that it protrudes 80 mm parallel below (3.5 x 35s screws).
7th After that, turn the plate (1). Note: Insert previously blankets or cardboard on the bucks, so the paint does not scratch! Now, the positions of the general purpose boxes (3) at an angle of 30 ° Mark (see figure). After this screw the boxes (3) to 3.5 x 25-screws. For wall mounting: Drill into the later facing the wall side of the upper and lower two boxes each have a 5-mm hole.
8th. Now rotate the plate (1) around and bond the mirror (5). Draw this the exact position easily with a thin pencil, then several strips glued mirror tape on the plate (1) and then press the mirror on careful.
9th Place the shelf at the final position. Set it up now with a spirit level and mark the holes - through the back of the boxes (3) - to. Drill the holes in the wall and then screw the shelf with plugs and screws to the wall - that's it!
Four alternative Wandgarderoben
Courtesy of toom
build key box itself
build a key box itself, is not difficult with our instructions. Simple design and practical, small size of the cabinet fit into any corner. The savings, however, be a great sure: because minutes long key search will come to an end.
Our box is actually only eight boards (it can also be used very good blend of old crafts), wood glue, some color, hooks, locks and hinges. Decorating can be the key box at its own discretion - or the colored situation in the hallway.
- Boards (32 x 32 x 1 cm)
- 2 boards (30 x 3 x 1 cm)
- 2 boards (32 x 5 x 1 cm)
- 2 boards (30 x 5 x 1 cm)
- wood color
- wood glue
- Small key hook made of brass
- magnetic lock
First of all boards are painted with wood color - we chose the color white. On the back board (32 x 32 x 1 cm) are both cross-strips (30 x 3 x 1 cm) glued. The first to the top edge, the second center - 12 cm square down, 12 cm square upward (to the first bar). the little key hooks are drilled brass into the cleats. They allow you to later hang the keys.
The frame is gefertig from the other narrow boards. Before the key cabinet is fully bonded to the front board (the door) hinge and lock solenoid mounted. First, to draw the outline of the castle on the wood and created with the router an opening for the lock in the cabinet door. Lock and hinges attach, stick frame, rear panel and door and you have that homemade key box.
Courtesy of Dremel.
build valet stand made of wood
If you think you can not, you are wrong.
Valet has been around insanely long. They serve as storage for clothing, newspapers, keys, glasses or the like, thus ensuring order in the entrance area.
If you like to have one vigilante in your home, then read on here, because we'll show you how you can easily build a silent butler himself.
1st and 2nd step
Step 1: marking and cutting of the side parts on the multifunction table (MFT) of the plunge-cut saw (TS 55).Step 2: Check all dimensions, marking the items with the joiner's triangle
3rd and 4th step
Step 3: Setting the non-return stop on the guide railStep 4: Set adjustable stop and cut with 2 plunge cuts breakthrough for the backrest; in the corners of the holes (d = 10 mm) drill for the jigsaw blade
5th and 6th step
Step 5: cutting the corners with the jigsaw (PS 300), and a conically sharpened jigsaw bladeStep 6: drilling the holes (d = 20mm) for the stainless steel rods on the MFT with the router (OF 1010)
7th and 8th step
Step 7: adjusting the drilling depth with a Bohrtiefenbegrenzer. Drilling the dowel holes (d = 10mm) in the upper narrow faces of the sidesStep 8: specify glue to the edges of the holes and dowels gluing
9th and 10th step
Step 9: Mark middle line on the underside of the plate and set the template. Drilling the dowel holesStep 10: abrading the corners with the hand sanding block
11th and 12th step
Step 11: rounding the top plate with the router (OF 1010) and a cutter rounding (r = 3 mm)Step 12: grinding the rounding and the narrow areas with the hand sanding block. Grinding of the surfaces with the grinder (RO 125). Final Touches grit P 180
13th and 14th step
Step 13: specify glue into the dowel holes of the plateStep 14: provide adhesive in the holes for the stainless steel rods
15 and 16. Step
Step 15: Laying side flat on the MFT and use stainless steel rods and subsequently attach the other side. Set up and plate hang up. tense with clamps.Step 16: Check squareness, if necessary by offsetting the ferrules korregieren
17th and 18th step
Step 17: Extract on the backrest Mark. Mark exit point of the saw bladeCut both cutouts at the trimming saw (CS 50): Step 18
19th and 20th step
run last cut with the miter saw: Step 19Step 20: grinding the edges with the delta sander (DS 400)
21 and 22 step
Step 21: sanding the surfaces with the grinder (RO 125). Last sanding grit P 180Step 22: sharpen edges with the hand sanding block
23 and 24. Step
Step 23: grinding away the last water stains and scratchestreating the surface with oil, wax or lacquer: Step 24
Frontal and Vertiakalschnitt
Courtesy of Festool