build garden shed itself
build garden shed itself
Build 5-corner garden house completely himself
Already was in the Bible that every man should build a house in his life, plant a tree and have a son. to build a complete house alone is likely to take too long even diehard DIYers, so we start small and show you how your a build garden shed itself can. - planting instructions for trees and bear sons you will find elsewhere.
This is a blueprint for a pentagonal Log cabin With tent roof and about 8.5 square meters floor area. There are other methods of construction, have the logs used here, however, the advantage that they by their double fold are very easy to assemble, the walls are pretty tight and no wind hindurchpfeift when the wood to warp time easily.
The following material costs are approximate. Depending on the dealer and negotiating skills, the prices may vary in some cases significantly.
Contents: build garden shed itself
- Material and tools
- Windows and doors
- Material blank
- Point foundation for the garden house
- Cutting and assembly of the upper frame wall
- Notches at the corners
- Cutting and assembly of the roof structure
- Screw the roof sheathing
- lay floor
- nail on shingles
Material and tools
|Cement and Sand||1 bag of cement and masonry sand||0.5 m³||20 €|
|joists||Spruce, 70x70 mm||26 m||100 €|
|Logs with double fold||Spruce, 50x146 mm, 131 mm deck width||150 m||500 €|
|Squares for windows & doorframes||Spruce, 50x50 mm||12 m||60 €|
|Boards for window & doorframes||Spruce, 18x120 mm||22 m||70 €|
|roof beam||Spruce, construction wood, 50x70 mm||35 m||100 €|
|Floorboards / roof sheathing||folded, 18x146 mm, 136 mm effective measurement||25 m²||350 €|
|roof shingles||Rectangular shingles of bitumen, 2.5 mm thick||15 m²||150 €|
|edgings||Floor completion inside||12 m||25 €|
|Color / stain|
|MATERIAL COSTS (approx)||1375 €|
Windows and doors
The cost of the windows and doors are not included in this table. Separate plans will follow shortly.
|various wood borers|
|chop saw||Table saw, circular saw|
|sword saw||Fine saw, Japanese saw|
|Spade for the foundations|
|spirit level||tube level|
All design drawings based on exact three-dimensional models. However, we can not rule out minor errors, so should not be completely cut before the assembly all parts. It should instead be prepared for some parts before each phase of construction and first checked the fit, then have enough time for minor adjustments.
Point foundation for the garden house
Lay support beam for the summer house on the base, and connect.
must first pre-construction a stable and Frostproof foundation are created for the garden shed. For the implementation, there are several possibilities. One can
- Leveling the floor plan and pave (for example, with simple square concrete slabs)
- a bottom plate,
- finds a strip member or a
- point foundation to water.
We opted for the last variant because it offers more stability than a paving which can sit over time, and is less expensive than a strip foundation or a whole floor slab.
The footprint of the house has about three feet square. Accordingly, the point foundations must be disposed. There should be a point foundation least among the five corners of the house, on the long sides it is safer each of yet more to pour halfway between the corners - for a total of seven foundations.
A Frostproof foundation must be deep in our part of at least 80 centimeters. Simply dig the ground in the appropriate places. With about 30 centimeters square, the holes are large enough to be able to dig fairly comfortable. Even more convenient making it a so-called auger, one can borrow at the hardware store. This tool drilled clean, vertical holes which result from experience very stable foundations.
So that the cement blocks protrude a few centimeters from the floor later, the upper end of the holes is shuttered with narrow boards. Should the soil be sandy and loose, sometimes you have to even board the entire hole to prevent soil slides down. You should already with a long spirit level the tops of the formwork bring in the balance, the more precisely you work, the less needs to be determined later if the bearing beams are aligned horizontally.
Once the holes are dug and installed the formwork, the holes must be filled only up to the top of the formwork with cement mixture. The mixture should earth-moist and chewy be, then it does not flow through the cracks of the formwork and you can almost draw clean. The mixture is poured layer by layer into the hole and in between, to prevent a timber or the like tamped blistering.
Particularly resistant foundation is with rebar. Matching elongated steel baskets there commercially. Simply press in the first concrete layer and center and then gradually the concrete in the hole fill. If necessary, between wobble a bit on steel basket, so that the concrete can be distributed everywhere.
Although the garden house has a relatively high weight, but it offers through its size and plenty of surface for the wind. To anchor it stable, should either ground anchor are pressed into the wet concrete and aligned. Alternatively, you can drill into the foundations after curing vertical holes into which later anchors for a Screw the joists with the foundations be set. One should inferior each thin hardwood chips or similar weather-resistant spacer, so that no permanent MOISTURE forms between joists and foundations, which is added to the timber over time.
Cutting of the wall sections.
The footings will need about two days to cure. In the summer in extreme heat and dryness, the surface of the concrete should be sporadically sprinkled with a little water, so that no cracks form. During the waiting time ever, the joists and the first wall elements can be trimmed.
The wall panels are notched on both sides with 10 centimeters overlap at the ends, as shown in the picture. The vertical offset for the crosswise scarf joint is achieved by starting two opposite sides with narrower elements. The recesses then fit exactly into one another at the ends and are very stable from the beginning.
Notches on the wall logs.Fit the wall elements.First, the bottom planks are cut and bolted, then aligned.
Is the foundation cured, the Joists screwed then placed and the area at the point foundations. Then, the first two to three planks series are mounted obliquely screwed and by the head ends respectively vertically into the notches to each other and the frame timbers. The planks should be nailed down gently with a rubber mallet to the springs prevent damage. One can also use a short piece of a residual pile than chopping block. Before screwing should be drilled to prevent the wood tearing and splits.
Are the first rows is assembled the whole Kunstruktion placed on the scale with flat pads. This should weather-resistant materials, such as hardwood or plastic pads are verde friend. So-called "Glazing blocks" are helpful and get different thicknesses conveniently in stores in many home improvement problems.
After aligning the bottom frame the wall boards are placed a fixed tapped and screwed to the other. Those who want to make the design more stable, can connect the boards with water-resistant wood glue. Simply draw a line glue in the grooves, along the tapping elements and wipe excess adhesive. It may be glued only longitudinal wood with longitudinal wooden ever, because the wood is longitudinally and transversely varying degrees expands to the fiber and can cause cracks if longitudinal is glued to end grain.
After six rows of the height of the panes is reached. On the left (from the entrance of view) side, which consists entirely of wide planks and does not start with a narrow, such as the right side (see photos!), Receives as a sixth element screed pane. The lower edge of this window opening is located after mounting exactly level with the top of the sixth wall beam the other side of the window, which therefore does not need to be trimmed.
Cutting of the elements for the window sides.Frame construction for the windows.
The following are now on each side of the window seven short pieces planks. Already after the third short Bohle the previously assembled window frames can be pushed from above into the recess and screwed. The screed elements above the windows have a section on both sides. If the window only completely enclosed, the walls are almost finished. Still a "normal" Bohlen row, then come on the upper wall frame of the series.
Cutting and assembly of the upper frame wall
The elements for the upper wall frame also the front are 3.20 meters long and thus form the front Roof overhang. The entire wall termination consists of five elongate elements, two of which at regular intervals Notches for the roof beams receive, and twelve short boards whose distances also can accommodate the roof beams. Cutting and assembly take place as seen in the pictures.
Notches at the corners
Before the roof beams can be placed, notches must be made at the corners yet. This can be done with a sword, fine or Japanese saw before installing the boards, or after mounting with circular saw and chisels. Especially at the corners should be used exactly as possible so that the roof beams already are reasonably stable while spinning. This is the Assembly of the roof structure much easier.
Cutting and assembly of the roof structure
For the roof first, all parts are sawn as shown. The miters at the upper ends of the roof beams should be done very carefully. Even small inaccuracies can later be reason for fiddly mending.
The four long beams, which run from the corners to the center, are on one side with a Miter of about 69 degrees provided (for a roof pitch of 21 degrees). Who wants to lower the bar ends run vertically, can cut accordingly here miter.
Two of these beams are now opposite screwed to a small, approximately 8x5 cm measured log and then diagonally placed on the wall frame. If the notches were carried out well in the corners of the end members, the construction remains standing without support. If not, you can help out with small wedges.
It follows the second pair of roof beams. They are simply placed in the notches of the remaining corners and also bolted to the block in the later rooftop. The basic framework for the roof's for sure. before the remaining bars are screwed, measuring the projection of the beam ends of the pile wall, aligns them, if appropriate, and screwed with the planks walls. - If the supernatant is the same everywhere, the design is also straight and the Rooftop is located just above the center of the base.
Then, the remaining bars are mounted one after the other. Here, the cutting is somewhat complicated by the need to cut at the upper ends twice. Once for the pitch and once for the contact surface to the adjacent roof beams. Who these steps does not trust himself can make the bars cut from Zimmermann, a Abbundanlage and / or the necessary technical experience has.
Screw the roof sheathing
If the roof structure completely, it goes to the roof sheathing. Now the work goes back more easily from the obvious: the 18 centimeters used here, strong, easily folded boards are placed starting from the bottom on one side of the roof structure, inclined lines, sawed and bolted at the center of the outer beams.
The floor of the garden house consists of the same boards, such as the roof sheathing, and is moved transversely to the bearing beams floating. Starting from 190 centimeters inside dimension and just one centimeter of air on both sides, the boards should be 188 centimeters long. This small distance from the walls is important so that the wood can expand. starting at the back (ie from the entrance on the right back wall).
With small, about one centimeter thick blocks or wedges the distance between the boards is ensured to the walls. A board after the other is pushed onto the spring of the previous board and - if necessary - carefully festgeklopft with the rubber hammer or a chopping block.
Once the later door sill which extends across a corner angle in the 45 degree is reached, the boards are cut flush with the outside edge of the diagonal storage timber. It should be used carefully, because the waste can be used for roof decking of the triangular roof overhang.
nail on shingles
Finally, the roof shingles are nailed bitumen. Each side of the roof is processed sequentially from bottom to top. The shingles at the bottom of the roof should withstand three to four centimeters, so that rain water can drain without coming into contact with the wood.
The beaver tails of the shingles always point upwards and only here is nailed. The next shingle is nailed laterally offset each by half a shingle. Is a series finished, the supernatants along the side edges of the roof area to be cut off flush with a sharp knife. The next series overlaps the beaver tails of the first. So row is moved to row on all four sides of the roof.
The gaps between the roof surfaces to be bridged at the very end with shingles, which are cut sharply. For the right angle, the first shingle is pressed centered over the corner on the groove and cut off along the adjacent roof surfaces. This shingle is then used as a template for the other, which can be prepared in the required number on the ground - that makes work easier.