building air conditioning itself: Adiabatic cooling in the home

building air conditioning itself: Adiabatic cooling in the homeAdiabatic cooling system, front view

Knowing the German summer: either 15 ° C and rain or roaring heat at 30 ° C upwards, on top of that thick humidity. While the former is still bearable for the organism, the latter more concentration, well-being and health can severely affect. Therefore, in particular sleeping and working areas must have a working ventilation and cooling. We will explain in this context the principle of adiabatic cooling. Without expensive compressors, without harmful air means so pleasant room conditions can be produced - we'll show you how!

Contents: Adiabatic cooling in the home

  • Adiabatic cooling: How does it work?
  • Adiabatic cooling in the house
  • Components for the adiabatic cooling system
  • Installation of Wämetauscher- and humidification container
  • Breakthroughs and ventilation pipes
  • Pre-assembly of the housing and the humidifier
  • Water connections and pump assembly
  • Final assembly: fan, venturi and housing front
  • commissioning
  • Safety and Liability
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Adiabatic cooling: How does it work?

Adiabatic cooling everybody knows, since it is based on the principle of evaporative cooling. So the feeling cold with moist skin, for example when getting out of the pool, much higher than for dry skin - the body's warmth is dissipated quickly.

Such a thing can be done with one's home: served Even in ancient times the Romans fountain in the houses or a wet cloth over the windows for air conditioning. disadvantage of this "direct" adiabatic cooling is the sharp rise in humidity in the interior - in our sultry, thermally insulated and often airtight dwellings impractical.

Therefore modern working according passive principle adiabatic cooling systems use heat exchangers. Like a car radiator replace hot and cold air above water as the carrier medium. The air is dry and the system closed.

Adiabatic cooling in the house

building air conditioning itself: Adiabatic cooling in the homePrinciple of operation of the adiabatic cooling

The following diagram describes the principle of adiabatic cooling system for a house, an apartment or an office. The plant ingredients you can buy at the hardware store or plumbing suppliers, and online there are many inexpensive shopping.

The principle of the system is quite simple: The warm air from the interior is drawn into the hydropneumatic humidifier. Whose capillary humidifies the air quickly and directs cool air into the heat exchanger 1 (WT1). The cooled water from WT1 is electrically pumped in WT2. Due to this, external air is sucked in to the lower electric fan flowing cooled in the interior.

Components for the adiabatic cooling system

  • 2 the plate heat exchanger, 315 x 73 x 97 mm
  • 2 duct assembly, Ø 100 mm
  • 1 Universal aquarium pump, flow rate 300 l / min
  • 1 Aerosol humidifier (AirTec HydroOne, dealer)
  • 4 1/2-inch tubing fittings
  • 2 hose connection pieces for the pump
  • 100 cm water hose, 1/2-inch fitting
  • 1 plastic ventilation grille, 35 x 35 cm
  • 150 cm plastic pipe white, Ø 100 mm
  • 1 two-way flow valve with 4 1/2-inch ports

Heat exchanger housing (of stainless materials):

  • 2 of sheet steel strips: 95 x 8 x 1.8 mm
  • 4 Steel sheet metal cover: 32 x 16 x 1.8 mm
  • 40 M5 machine screws, 16 mm
  • 80 washers M6
  • 40 M6 nuts

Aerosol humidifier housing (of stainless materials):

  • 1 Steel strip: 61 x 15 x 1.8 mm
  • 2 Steel sheet cover: 16 x 16 x 1.8 mm
  • 24 M5 machine screws, 16 mm
  • 48 washers M6
  • 24 M6 nuts

Housing:

  • Screen printing plates 2: 55 x 30 x 1,2 cm
  • Screen printing plates 2: 37.6 x 30 x 1.2 cm
  • 1 screen printing plate: 55 x 40 x 1,2 cm
  • 18 wood screws, 3.0 x 50 mm
  • 2 steel brackets for wall mounting with M8 bore 40 x 40 x 2.0 mm
  • 2 machine screws M8, 30 mm
  • 2 washers M8
  • 2 wing nuts M8

Fresh air funnel:

  • rotated thin plastic plate into a cone with the bottom 10 and top 30 cm opening and fixed with hot melt adhesive
  • Grid, mesh width 3 mm, round, diameter 30 cm

Tools:

  • jigsaw
  • Steel hole saw 100 mm and 20 mm
  • HSS drills: 6 mm and 10 mm
  • silicone gun
  • strongly adhesive joint sealant (e.g., seal Sista & Hard by Henkel)
  • kneadable and moldable, adhesive sealant (e.g., from the body)
  • building foam
  • Spray paint (including residues suitable)
  • Installation glue
  • (Electrical) Tacker
  • Possibly. Electrical and inert gas welding equipment for welding the boxes instead of the screw.

Installation of Wämetauscher- and humidification container

First boxes for the two heat exchangers are assembled from pre-cut sheets: Bend the long plates on the press brake first to 31, then to 15, then back 31, again at 15 and then again from 1 cm. To get the basic shape. This fix by three screws on the narrow seam, you need to pre-drill with the 6-mm drill. Then, the covers are folded around 1 cm, provided with holes 3 at the long sides 2 and on the narrow side and initially screwed to the frame. The seams are sealed with sealant.

Just proceed with the smaller container for receiving the aerosol Befeuchtungsgerätes. Here you must pay particular attention to precision because these containers must be watertight later. therefore Check best with water if the container tightly holds. If this is the case, spray the container with a thick layer of paint from the spray - this can also be used like a rest. Up the completed cover you must not forget.

Breakthroughs and ventilation pipes

Now it is a little painful: Two exactly superimposed, 10 cm wide openings in the wall must be made. The openings must be exactly 20 cm overlap. then slide the two plastic pipes with diameter of 10 cm through the apertures therethrough; Leaks are sealed with foam insulation. The pipes must inwardly protrude about 5 mm from the wall.

Now drill the hose routes in the heat exchanger boxes at the bottom or top. You must exactly match the spacing of the connecting pieces to the boxes.

Now, two 100-mm-holes are milled centrally through the back sides of the two heat exchanger units with the Stahllochsäge and the two boxes placed centrally and horizontally transversely to the tubes so that the tubes about protrude one centimeter in the boxes. Then, the boxes mounted on the wall with two screws. The pipe penetration is sealed in the box inside with joint sealant. Now the heat exchanger elements may be used.

Pre-assembly of the housing and the humidifier

Now screw directly below the lower heat exchanger, the lower housing half of the screen printing plate with two upward-pointing angles centered on the wall firmly. It bears the humidifier. On the left side, 1 cm from the edge, you must, however, initially a 100 mm hole for cable / hose guide be milled.

Now, a 100-mm hole is machined through the lid of the box of the lower heat exchanger, as well as through the lid of the humidifier. The two holes must, sealed, are exactly aligned on the lower housing part. Between these two housing a 90-mm plastic pipe section is then inserted and sealed airtight with sealing compound. The humidifier is now mounted in Befeuchterkasten; the moistening nozzles here have toward the heat exchanger. Do not forget to mount directly beneath the lid two holes for the power cable and the water inlet hose and carefully, after carrying out the pipes to seal.

Now you can already assemble the two side housing halves and the lid.

Water connections and pump assembly

building air conditioning itself: Adiabatic cooling in the homemount bleeding

The pump is seen in, from the front, mounted left cold water line. Close the tubes so that the pump can be mounted on the wall with two screws. then run the cable down through and through the delivery passage of the housing bottom.

Into the right tube, the overflow and venting valve is mounted. It is right attached to the top of the housing (see drawing) and connected to the hoses. So the system can be vented at the highest point.

Final assembly: fan, venturi and housing front

Before the upper heat exchanger, the inner tube fan will be mounted in a 15 cm long piece of pipe and passed through the 100 mm hole of the upper heat exchanger box lid. The tube is carefully glued with mounting glue - nothing here should jiggle or leaking. The inner tube fan is mounted and carried out the cable to the bottom.

Now, from the flexible plastic is a Lufftrichter of only 11 cm depth, but curved with a rear opening of 10.5 cm and a front opening of about 30 cm and at first, then fixed with clips with mounting glue in the funnel shape.

a hole of 29 cm diameter exactly 5 cm below the upper edge will be cut into the front of the chassis. the plastic net will be stretched by tacking to the back of the hole. It should lie wrinkle-free. At the back of the net shall then be stuck with mounting adhesive of the venturi - and this connection should be tight. Subsequently, the front housing plate is tentatively placed. The funnel should be about the pipe penetration "to impose", If everything fits, the system can now go into operation!

commissioning

Before commissioning the system must be filled with water. For this, the drain tap is opened and connected to a water tap with a water hose. The water is turned on. After the water heard no longer flows into the system, the upper vent valve is opened. If a steady stream of water coming from the plant, it is free of air bubbles. Both stopcocks are now closed, the water hose connected to the humidifier.

Now humidifier, pump and fan are switched on. After a few minutes you can feel already a first fresh breath of air. Keep your cool!

Safety and Liability

In this system it is explicitly a self-made construction, that is, it is built in-house and commissioned. We therefore disclaim all liability for any function, business interruption and any damages.

If you are not sure of in the execution of the work, consult a specialist or a specialist company. Pay particular through the use of electricity and water in the same device to a working FI circuit in the fuse box - Better safe than sorry.

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